How to Put Cover on Patio Umbrella: Step-by-Step Tips

Close your umbrella fully, give the canopy a quick clean and dry, then slide the right-sized cover over the top and cinch or zip it closed at the bottom. Best Umbrella Cover, TheWearify (product roundup with example dimensions) notes that Sample sizing pattern used by cover makers: match closed umbrella circumference and height to cover spec; if exact match unavailable, choose a cover with slightly larger circumference and height. Example product sizes: many retail '6–9 ft' market covers list overall height ~65–75 in and tapered bottom circumference ~18–36 in depending on design; '9–12 ft' covers list heights ~75–90 in. (See multiple product specs for typical ranges.) Best Umbrella Cover — TheWearify (product roundup with example dimensions). That's the short version. The longer version involves picking the correct cover type for your umbrella style, measuring it properly so the cover actually fits, and fastening it in a way that survives wind and keeps moisture and pests out. If you've ever wrestled a too-small cover onto a 9-foot market umbrella at dusk while it's starting to rain, you know there's a smarter way to do this. This guide walks you through every step.

Why bother covering your patio umbrella

UV exposure is the single biggest killer of outdoor umbrella fabric. Even solution-dyed acrylic canopies (the same material used in Sunbrella fabric) will fade, weaken, and eventually split faster when left fully exposed year-round. A properly fitted cover cuts that UV load dramatically and also keeps bird droppings, pollen, tree sap, and general grime off the canopy between uses. In rain-heavy climates, a cover prevents that slow mildew buildup that's tedious to clean and eventually permanent. For anyone storing an umbrella through winter, a cover is the difference between pulling out a canopy that looks good in spring versus one that's already compromised.

Cover your umbrella any time it won't be used for more than a few days, whenever a storm is forecast, and absolutely during off-season storage. If you've been thinking about making your own cover rather than buying one, that's a completely viable option too and the process starts the same way: you still need accurate measurements and you still need to prep the umbrella before covering it. For step-by-step plans and materials to build one yourself, see our guide on how to make patio umbrella. For a step-by-step DIY option, see a tutorial on how to make a patio umbrella cover that walks through materials, measurements, and sewing tips. If you also need a base, see our do it yourself patio umbrella stand guide for simple plans and materials.

Choosing the right cover type for your umbrella

Not every cover fits every umbrella, and the shape of your umbrella determines which style works. There are four types you'll encounter at hardware stores, garden centers, and online retailers.

The four main cover types

• Slip-on (pullover): A simple tube or tapered cylinder you pull down over the closed canopy from the top. These are the most common and easiest to use on standard center-pole (market) umbrellas. They rely on a snug fit or an elastic/drawstring hem to stay put.
• Zipper cover: Same cylindrical shape as a slip-on but with a full-length side zipper. You unzip it completely, wrap it around the closed umbrella, then zip it back up. Great for one-person installation and especially useful on very large or heavy umbrellas where pulling a tight cover over the top is awkward.
• Cone/tapered cover: Shaped like a narrow cone rather than a cylinder. These are designed specifically for cantilever and offset umbrellas, which close into a narrower, more tapered bundle than a market umbrella does. A standard cylindrical cover won't clear a cantilever's side arm or base collar.
• Drawstring/elastic-hem cover: Usually a slip-on or cone design with a bungee cord or cinch drawstring sewn into the hem. The elastic hem is what keeps the cover from blowing off in wind — this is the feature to prioritize if you live somewhere gusty or if you plan to leave the cover on for extended periods.

Cover materials compared

Material matters more than most people expect. Here's how the main options stack up across the things that actually count for outdoor use.

My recommendation for most homeowners: a 600D Oxford polyester cover with a PU or PVC backing and a drawstring or bungee hem. It's fully waterproof, durable enough to handle years of outdoor use, and widely available for $15 to $50 depending on size. If you're covering a high-end Sunbrella canopy, stepping up to an acrylic canvas cover is worth the extra cost because the breathability reduces moisture trapping underneath. Avoid cheap PE tarps as anything more than a quick fix, they degrade in UV far too fast to be worth the hassle.

Tools and materials you'll need

You probably have most of this already. Here's what to gather before you start. If you also need guidance on building a sturdy base, see how to make a patio umbrella stand for step-by-step instructions.

• Flexible tape measure (cloth or vinyl, at least 60 inches long)
• Pen and notepad or your phone to record measurements
• Soft-bristle brush or sponge for cleaning
• Mild dish soap and a bucket of water
• Garden hose (or a bucket of rinse water)
• Clean dry towels or a microfiber cloth
• The replacement cover (correctly sized — more on this below)
• Bungee cords or hook-and-loop straps (optional backup fasteners for windy areas)
• Zip ties or small buckle straps (optional, for securing the hem to the pole)
• Repair tape or a fabric patch kit (to fix small tears in the existing canopy before you cover it)

If your umbrella has a crank mechanism that's been acting up, or if the tilt mechanism is stiff, sort those out before covering the umbrella for storage. Covering a mechanically compromised umbrella just kicks the problem down the road, and in some cases traps moisture around moving parts. A small tube of silicone lubricant is handy to have nearby for the pole and crank housing before you button everything up.

How to measure your umbrella for the right cover size

This is the step most people skip, and it's why covers either won't go on or blow off in the first breeze. You need three measurements: closed circumference, closed height, and pole diameter. If you need extra height, see how to make a patio umbrella taller for safe modification tips. For step-by-step measuring instructions and a tools list (tape measure, optional calipers, and an optional helper), see How to Measure Your Umbrella, Coverstore blank" rel="noopener noreferrer">How to Measure Your Umbrella — Coverstore. Everything else is secondary.

1. Close the umbrella completely. Use whatever locking mechanism your model has (Velcro strap, snap button, or sliding collar) to hold the canopy bundle as tight as possible. If it tilts, make sure it's in the upright position.
2. Measure the circumference at the widest point of the folded canopy. Wrap your tape measure around the thickest part of the folded bundle, usually about one-third of the way down from the top. If it's easier, measure straight across the diameter of the bundle and multiply by 3.14 (pi) to get circumference. Round up to the nearest inch.
3. Measure the full closed height from the lowest point of the folded fabric to the very top of the finial (the decorative tip at the top of the umbrella). If your finial is unusually tall or pointed, add 1 to 2 inches to give the cover clearance.
4. Measure the pole diameter at the point where the cover hem will sit. Most standard center-pole market umbrellas have poles between 1 inch and 1.5 inches in diameter. This matters for covers with fitted pole collars.
5. For cantilever/offset umbrellas, also measure the maximum closed width of the collapsed canopy arm, since cone-style covers need to clear that dimension.
6. If you're also replacing the canopy (not just the cover), measure the rib length: with the umbrella open, measure from the center runner out to the rib tip. Multiply by 2 to get the full canopy diameter. This is more accurate than relying on the label size.
7. When ordering a cover, choose one whose listed height and circumference are at least 2 to 4 inches larger than your measurements. A cover that's slightly roomy is much easier to install and remove than one that's exactly flush.

Umbrella size chart: matching your measurements to cover sizes

Cover sizing varies between manufacturers, but the ranges below reflect what's commonly available at retail and from specialty cover shops. Always measure your actual umbrella and compare against the seller's stated cover dimensions, not just the label size. The 'canopy label size' printed on your umbrella is the open diameter and doesn't tell you how big the closed bundle is.

If your measurements fall between two listed cover sizes, always go with the larger option. A cover that's 3 inches too long is easy to manage with a drawstring. A cover that's 2 inches too short is a fight every single time.

Prep your umbrella before putting the cover on

Putting a cover over a wet or dirty umbrella is one of the most common causes of mildew damage. The cover traps moisture and organic debris against the canopy fabric and creates exactly the warm, dark, humid environment that mold loves. Spend 20 minutes on prep and you won't have to spend hours scrubbing mildew in spring.

1. Close and lock the canopy. Do not cover the umbrella while it's open or tilted. Make sure all ribs are fully seated and the locking collar or Velcro strap is engaged so the canopy bundle stays compact.
2. Brush off loose debris. Use a soft-bristle brush or your hand to knock off any loose leaves, pollen, or dried bird droppings. Do this before you wet anything so you're not grinding grit into the fabric.
3. Wash the canopy. Mix a small amount of mild dish soap in a bucket of water and wipe down the folded canopy with a sponge or soft cloth. For routine dirt, this is all you need. Rinse thoroughly with the hose.
4. Treat any mildew before covering. For light mildew on polyester or acrylic fabric, an oxygen-based cleaner (sodium percarbonate, like OxiClean) is gentler on colors and coatings than chlorine bleach. For severe mildew on Sunbrella-type acrylic fabric, Sunbrella recommends a solution of 1 cup household bleach plus 1/4 cup mild soap per gallon of water, applied for up to 15 minutes then rinsed completely. Never cover a canopy that still has active mildew — you'll seal the problem in.
5. Allow the canopy to dry completely. In humid climates, give it at least 24 hours in open air. Feel the folded fabric — if it's even slightly cool or damp to the touch, wait longer. Covering damp fabric is the mistake you want to avoid above all others.
6. Repair any damage. Fix small tears with a fabric repair patch or repair tape before covering. Replace any missing rib tips, end caps, or hub hardware. If the fabric has large holes or the rib structure is badly bent, decide now whether you're repairing or replacing the canopy — a cover won't fix structural damage.
7. Remove detachable accessories. Take off any lights, solar panels, wind vents (if removable), and decorative finials that would create awkward bulk or sharp points that could puncture the cover. Set them aside for storage separately.

How to install a slip-on (pullover) cover

Slip-on covers are the most common type for market/center-pole umbrellas and also the most straightforward to install once you've got the sizing right. Here's the exact process I use, including the tricks for getting a snug cover over a bulky canopy without tearing anything.

1. Confirm the umbrella is fully closed and secured. Give the canopy bundle a firm squeeze at the midpoint — it should feel compact and consistent, with no ribs poking out to one side. If your umbrella has a snap button or Velcro strap on the pole to hold the bundle closed, use it.
2. Orient the cover correctly. Slip-on covers are tapered, wider at the bottom and narrower at the top. Hold the cover so the narrow (top) opening faces up and the hem (which may have a drawstring, bungee cord, or elastic) faces down.
3. Stand the umbrella upright in its base. Having the umbrella vertical and stable makes the next steps much easier. If you don't have a base handy, lean the pole against a wall at a slight angle and have someone hold it, or lay it on a table.
4. Feed the finial through the top opening first. Lift the cover above the umbrella's finial and slide the narrow top of the cover down over the tip. The finial should pop through the small opening at the top — if the opening is fitted with a grommet or snap, fasten it around the finial now.
5. Work the cover downward in sections. Pull the cover down over the upper third of the canopy bundle, then pause and smooth it out evenly. Don't yank it all at once — gather the cover fabric and walk it down incrementally, a few inches at a time, alternating sides to keep it centered.
6. Deal with a tight fit. If the cover is sticking, don't force it. First check that the canopy bundle is as compact as possible — sometimes one rib is slightly out of alignment. If the cover itself is stiff (common with new vinyl or heavy PVC covers in cool weather), bring it indoors for 10 minutes to warm and soften the fabric before trying again. A very light dusting of baby powder or cornstarch on the outside of the folded canopy can also reduce friction significantly.
7. Pull the hem down past the bottom of the canopy. The cover should extend past the lowest point of the folded fabric. For most market umbrellas, the hem will sit somewhere down the pole shaft, which is exactly where you want it — it means the entire canopy is covered.
8. Cinch the drawstring or fasten the bungee hem. Pull the drawstring tight and tie it securely around the pole, or hook the bungee cord around the pole behind the crank housing or through a hole in the hub. The hem should be snug enough that wind can't get underneath and balloon the cover up, but not so tight it stresses the hem stitching.
9. Add a backup strap if needed. In areas with regular wind, loop a hook-and-loop strap (like a gear strap) around the mid-section of the cover and the pole for extra security. This prevents the cover from riding up even if the drawstring loosens over time.
10. Check the fit from all angles. Walk around the umbrella and confirm the cover is even, the finial is fully inside, and there are no pockets or gaps where water could pool. A proper fit looks smooth and snug without any fabric bunching at the sides.

Installing a zipper cover

Zipper covers follow the same logic but you approach it differently. Unzip the cover completely before you start. Open it flat, wrap it around the closed umbrella from one side, align the zipper edges, and zip from the bottom up to the top. Most zipper covers include a small cord or tab at the top to help thread the finial through the fitted top opening after zipping. Once zipped, fasten the bottom hem with the built-in drawstring or bungee. Zipper covers are a genuine quality-of-life upgrade for large umbrellas (9 feet and up) because you never have to wrestle the cover over the top. The one downside: if the zipper fails, the cover becomes useless. When buying, check that the zipper is heavy-duty (YKK #5 or larger) and that the pull is easy to grasp with one hand.

Installing a cone cover on a cantilever or offset umbrella

Cantilever umbrellas collapse differently from market umbrellas, the canopy folds down along the arm rather than straight down a center pole. This creates a longer, more tapered bundle that a standard cylinder cover simply won't accommodate. Use a cone-style or offset-specific cover and install it the same way as a slip-on: narrow end over the top, work it down the bundle, fasten the hem to the base collar or arm. The key difference is that the base opening of a cone cover is usually much wider to clear the arm mechanism, and it may include a separate strap to anchor the hem to the base. Make sure that strap is fastened, because cone covers on offset umbrellas are more vulnerable to wind lift than center-pole covers are.

Securing the cover in wind

A cover that blows off in the first storm does no protection at all. These are the fastening techniques that actually hold.

• Drawstring around the pole: Thread the drawstring through the pole's crank housing or around the pole below any protruding hardware and tie a tight half-hitch or loop knot. Don't just tie a bow — bows loosen.
• Bungee-hem covers: Hook the bungee through the natural gap between the crank housing and the pole, not just looped loosely around the outside. This gives the bungee a mechanical anchor point.
• Mid-cover strap: A hook-and-loop gear strap around the middle of the cover prevents billowing. Cinch it snug but not tight enough to crush the canopy bundle.
• Zip tie through the hem grommet: If your cover has a grommet in the hem, a zip tie looped through it and around the pole is cheap, fast, and very effective for storage seasons when you won't be removing the cover often.
• For cantilever umbrellas, anchor the base: Some cone covers come with a secondary strap that wraps around the base frame. Use it. Cantilever covers have more surface area catching wind and need that lower anchor.

Troubleshooting common problems

The cover won't go on, it's too tight

First, double-check that the canopy bundle is actually fully closed. One rib slightly out of position can add an inch or two to the bundle diameter. If the umbrella is genuinely closed and the cover is still too tight, you either have the wrong size or a new cover that needs to stretch slightly. Warm the cover (bring it inside for 10–15 minutes), apply a small amount of baby powder to the canopy fabric as a dry lubricant, and try again working incrementally from top to bottom rather than pulling all at once.

The zipper is stuck or won't close

Don't force a stuck zipper, you'll break the pull or the teeth. First, check that no fabric is caught in the teeth along the zip line. If the teeth are clear but the zipper still drags, run a wax candle stub, a bar of dry soap, or a purpose-made zipper lubricant along both sides of the teeth and work the pull gently back and forth. If the zipper pull itself has come off the track, use needle-nose pliers to gently squeeze the sides of the slider back together, then re-thread the pull onto the bottom stop. A repeatedly failing zipper is a sign the slider is worn, replacement sliders cost under $2 at fabric stores and are worth swapping before the zipper fails completely during a storm.

The cover keeps blowing off

This is a fastening problem, not a sizing problem. Check that your drawstring is actually tied to a fixed point on the pole rather than just cinched around the fabric. Add a mid-cover strap if you don't already have one. For chronic wind issues, switching to a zipper-style cover eliminates most of the lift problem because there's no open hem for wind to catch.

Mold appeared under the cover after storage

This almost always means the canopy wasn't fully dry before covering, or a non-breathable cover (vinyl or PVC) trapped condensation over a long storage period. Clean the mildew using the appropriate method for your canopy fabric (oxygen bleach for colored polyester, Sunbrella's bleach-and-soap formula for acrylic canvas), let the canopy dry completely, and switch to a more breathable cover material (coated polyester over vinyl) for future storage. If mildew keeps returning despite proper prep, consider storing the umbrella indoors or at minimum leaving the hem slightly loose to allow airflow.

The cover has a small tear

Small tears in polyester or vinyl covers are worth patching rather than replacing the whole cover. Clean and dry the area, apply a self-adhesive fabric repair patch (available at outdoor/camping stores) to both the inside and outside of the tear, and press firmly. For coated polyester covers, a patch with a matching PU-coated adhesive backing will outlast an uncoated patch. A cover with a 3-inch tear that you patched will outlast a brand-new cheap cover most days of the week.

When to repair vs. replace your cover

Repair the cover if: tears are small (under 6 inches), the zipper just needs a new slider, the drawstring pulled out of its channel, or the hem elastic is stretched but the rest of the cover is intact. These are all $5 fixes that add years to a cover's life. Replace the cover if: the fabric itself is cracking or flaking (common with aged vinyl or cheap PE tarps), the denier has worn through in multiple spots, there's widespread UV degradation causing brittleness, or the cover has shrunk to the point where it no longer fits properly. Replacement covers for standard market umbrellas run $15 to $50 and are genuinely worth replacing on schedule rather than patching a cover that's basically disintegrated.

Seasonal storage and winterizing

If you're covering the umbrella for winter storage rather than just overnight protection, the prep steps matter even more. Clean and dry the canopy thoroughly, treat any mildew before it goes into storage, and lubricate the crank and tilt mechanisms with a dry silicone spray before closing everything up. Store the covered umbrella horizontally on a garage shelf or lean it vertically in a corner away from freezing exterior walls if possible. Vinyl and PVC covers can become stiff and crack in sustained freezing temperatures, if your storage space gets below freezing regularly, a coated polyester or acrylic canvas cover is a better choice for that environment. Never leave an umbrella covered but outdoors in standing water, as water will wick up inside the cover hem over a long winter and do more damage than no cover at all.

For extended off-season storage, some homeowners remove the canopy entirely from the frame and store it flat or loosely rolled. This is the gold standard for canopy preservation, but if you'd rather leave it assembled (which is totally reasonable for most home setups), a well-fitted, breathable cover installed over a clean, dry canopy will protect it reliably season after season. If you need help making the canopy easier to access or remove, see our guide on how to extend patio umbrella for step-by-step instructions.